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Bill’s Produce Store

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Address: The Depot, 100 North Road, Brighton, BN1 1YE
Tel: 01273 692 894
Web: http://www.billsproducestore.co.uk
Opening hours: Mon-Sat, 8am-10pm; Sunday, 9am-10pm
Our rating
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Makes you question your religious beliefs

Average price for meal for two, with drinks: £25

It’s not everyday you come across a restaurant so good you’ll sit in traffic for hours, refuse even to stop for a petrol station snack, and wrestle past acres of be-dreadlocked hippies and their guitars, just to get a sniff of it. But then there ain’t nothin’ everyday about Bill’s.

The original Bill’s in Lewes first opened its doors in 2001 on the grounds of owner Bill Collison’s greengrocers. To this day the walls of this restaurant, and the newer one in Brighton, are festooned with earthy great bunches of carrots, rhubarb and all manner of chutneys, jams, pastes and other gubbins which sit prettily waiting to relieve you of your cash. The menus dangle high from the rafters, scrawled in chalk on big dusty blackboards. Your eyes will dart between them, but you’re much more likely to spot exactly what you want disappearing down someone else’s pipes as you queue.

The danger with Bill’s is that you only ever eat the Breakfasts – a danger, because beyond this quite unbelievable stack of bacon, sausages, tomatoes and eggs, plus mushrooms so black and juicy they’ll make you question your religious beliefs, there is more. So much more. The quiches come so crammed with purple sprouting broccoli, hazelnuts, cheese and leeks and that it’s amazing they even hold together. And then there is the selection of genius mains which includes a big bowl of chilli served with tortilla chips, sour cream, jalapenos and chickpea rice. Drinks-wise, the special milkshakes are made up of yesterday’s pudding.  And obviously these aren’t just everyday puddings; a quick trip to the counter as you return from the loo reveals banoffee pie, cheesecake and lemon tart, all dressed up in flowers and pomegranate. If just looking makes you feel guilty, you can pick up a beetroot on the way out.

Bill’s isn’t a cheap eat; it’s a wonderland.

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